2014.11.29【英译中】【美食之旅】这是最初的汉堡吗?(二)

发表于:2014-11-29 12:49 [只看楼主] [划词开启]

Just so I could try a variety of types – if such diversity existed – I’d been hoping to find a chef or restaurant in Hamburg that made an elevated version of the rundstück warm, perhaps with pork belly and topped with foie gras between a potato roll or ciabatta bread.

如果有这么多种类的汉堡,我就可以尝试各种不同的口味。我希望汉堡市的某个主厨或某个餐厅能够做出加强版的 rundstück warm,在土豆卷饼或夏巴塔面包中夹上抹了鹅肝酱的猪腩肉。


 My search proved fruitless. Apparently adding a top bun is about as “haute” as I was going to find in Hamburg.
虽然我的寻找无疾而终,不过显然,加上了顶层面包的汉堡就像我在汉堡市里试图寻找的“豪华版本”。


But the question remained: Does the hamburger descend from the rundstück warm?

不过,问题还是没有解决:汉堡到底是不是起源于rundstück warm呢?


Maybe. According to some historians, the rundstück warm originated in the 17th Century, when Hamburg bakeries began making a round roll.

答案是:很有可能。根据许多历史学家的说法,rundstück warm 起源于17世纪,那个时候面包师们刚刚开始烘焙圆卷。


 Soon after, the roll began being served with leftover pork and gravy at lunchtime on Mondays – and with that, the rundstück warm was born.
之后不久,这种圆卷就与剩猪肉和肉汁一起,一同端上了周一午餐的饭桌,接着就有了rundstück warm。


If this culinary development had occurred anywhere else, the concoction probably wouldn’t have made the leap across the Atlantic. But Hamburg has long been an important port city connecting Europe to the United States.
若是这种美食在其他任何地方改良发展,都不太可能普及到横渡大西洋。但是汉堡市长久以来一直是一个十分重要的港口城市,承担着接通欧洲和美国的重大责任。


 At some point in the 18th Century, German immigrants set up food stalls in New York City advertising “Steak Cooked in the Hamburg Style” to German sailors and newly arrived German immigrants.
在18世纪的某一天,一帮德国移民在纽约摆了一个小吃摊,为了吸引德国水手和新的德国移民,他们将小吃摊的广告宣传为“汉堡式牛排”。


The stalls were mysteriously serving beef, not pork, placed between two halves of a round bun.
这个小吃摊莫名其妙的将牛排而不是猪肉夹在两份圆球面包中间。


I picked up the rundstück warm and took a bite. It tasted exactly as I expected: a porky mouthful aided by gravy. The chives, sprinkled on top of the pork, added another flavor strata as well as a bit of a crunch. I could certainly see the connection.
我拿起rundstück warm咬了一口,那种味道就像我想象的一样:猪肉汁充满了我的整个口腔, 而洒在猪肉上的细香葱,在给汉堡增味的同时又格外清脆,我可以清楚的看到香葱的纤维。


I asked Libbert if he thought the rundstück warm was the original hamburger.
我问力博特,是否觉得rundstück warm就是汉堡的原型。

“Yes, probably,” he said with a shrug.
“是,很有可能。”他耸了耸肩回答说。


But food historians disagree on the modern burger’s origins. While some believe the hamburger does descend from the rundstück warm, others contend it originated elsewhere.
但是食物历史学家并不赞同这种现代汉堡的起源。尽管他们有些人相信汉堡确实起源于rundstück warm,但还有一些人主张另有源头。


 Beef patties date as far back as Roman times. Investigate when beef patties were placed between slices of bread and you find some historians pointing not to German food stalls in New York but a county fair in Wisconsin.
烤冻牛肉饼能追溯到罗马时期,调查发现烤冻牛肉饼就是被夹在两片面包中间食用的,一些历史学家并不关注纽约的德国小吃摊,而是将目光聚焦于威斯康辛州的乡村集市。


In the late 1800s, Charles Nagreen was selling Hamburg steaks – essentially a burger minus the bun, which some trace back to Hamburg – at the Outagamie County Fair in Wisconsin.
18世纪末期,威斯康辛州的奥塔加米县的集市上,一个叫查尔斯·纳格恩的小贩正在出售汉堡牛排——基本上就是去掉了面包的汉堡,这种汉堡牛排就起源于汉堡市。


 Sales were weak because eating a piece of meat on the go was a messy affair. But in 1885, he had an epiphany: If he put the meat between two pieces of bread, people could walk around holding it. And that development, some say, created the hamburger.
因为边走边吃一大块肉特别容易弄得脏兮兮的,所以当时的贩卖并不理想。但在1885年时,他突然灵机一动:如果把肉夹在两块面包中间,人们就能边走边拿着吃了。这一步的飞跃,从某种意义上来讲,就是汉堡的诞生。


Similar tales from the same era credit burger innovators in Ohio, Texas, Connecticut and beyond. Unfortunately, there’s no conclusive evidence of exactly where or how the burger began.
同一时期,类似这样革新汉堡的故事在俄亥俄州、德克萨斯州、康涅狄格州以及其他地方不断发生。


One thing is fairly certain, though: Nearly all stories begin with the protagonist using a “Hamburg steak,” which means the city of Hamburg has – and will always be – associated with the hot sandwich.
有一件事情可以肯定,那就是:几乎所有的故事主角最开始都是用了“汉堡牛排”,这个名字正是取自于德国汉堡市,这些故事也大多与热三明治有关联。


If the rundstück warm really is the precursor to the modern hamburger, it feels more like a great uncle than a grandfather.
如果rundstück warm真的是现代汉堡的始祖,那么它更像是现代汉堡的旁系叔叔而不是直系的祖父。


I think of the way musical historians draw a line from Chuck Berry through the Beatles to Foo Fighters.
这让我想到了音乐历史学家画的时间轴,从查克·贝瑞到披头士,再到喷火战机乐队。


There’s not a direct A-to-B lineage but more of a zigzagging route with a couple of twists erased and lost to history.
历史的发展从没有一个直接由A到B的直系传承,而更像一种之字形发展,在这个发展路线中,我们遗失了许多历史故事和当中的转折。


Regardless, after sinking my teeth into the sandwich, I was sure of one thing: Whether it’s the grandfather of the contemporary hamburger or not, the rundstück warm is tasty enough to try when you find yourself hungry in Hamburg.
不管怎样,在品尝了这种三明治之后,我能确定一点:无论rundstück warm是不是当代汉堡的直系祖父, 但如果你在汉堡市觉得饿了,这绝对是值得品尝的一道美食。

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